Jalea Mixta (Peruvian Fried Seafood Platter)

Purpose: a variety of seafood textures, flaky fish, snappy shrimp, tender squid, is what makes jalea a shareable, generous dish

Handling: pat very dry before battering so the coating adheres and fries crisp rather than steaming

Adaptation: use whatever firm white fish and shellfish are freshest; scallops can be added for variety.

Purpose: its bubbles aerate the batter, producing a crisp, lacy crust instead of a dense one

Handling: add it cold and just before frying, don't let the batter sit and go flat

Adaptation: cold sparkling water works identically; still water makes a heavier batter.

Purpose: blended with flour, it cuts the gluten development that would otherwise make the crust chewy instead of crisp

Handling: whisk thoroughly with the flour before adding liquid to avoid lumps

Adaptation: rice flour blended with the all-purpose flour gives an even crisper, slightly gluten-reduced crust.

Purpose: its dense, slightly sweet flesh fries up with a crisp exterior and soft interior, playing the role fries would in another cuisine

Handling: boil until just tender before frying so the inside is creamy, not raw

Adaptation: a firm potato wedge can stand in, though the texture is less starchy-dense.

Purpose: its raw, acidic crunch cuts through the fried seafood's richness

Handling: slice the onion very thin and let it sit in the lime juice mixture to soften slightly

Adaptation: add a few thin slices of aji amarillo to the salsa for extra heat if desired.